THE SCENIC ROUTE

Cross-country skiing can turn legs into jelly and stretch lungs to capacity. Simply standing up on the skis is sometimes like balancing oneself on a pair of ultra-light toothpicks.

But those who don’t mind a bit of work will find that Southern California has some of the prettiest winter wonderland-type scenery to be found anywhere, from the world-famous Yosemite back country to Mt. Pinos, just down the road from Frazier Park.

Advice for beginners: Cough up a few extra bucks and learn on the smooth, easy tracks of a groomed trail. Trust us, it’s easier to appreciate the scenery when your head doesn’t resemble a giant snow cone.

Ski rentals are usually available at or near most trail heads. But a better deal can often be found at a sporting goods store. Also, always phone first to check snow and road conditions--and don’t forget to bring those tire chains.

That does it for friendly advice. Now here is a look at a few cross-country ski areas you might try:

Ungroomed Trails

MT. PINOS

At 8,831 feet, Mt. Pinos is the tallest mountain in Ventura County and it usually snags enough storms to keep it snow-covered in the winter. A network of marked trails can he found surrounding the Chula Vista parking area at the top of the mountain. The most popular is the intermediate-rated Condor Summit Road Trail, which begins at the locked gate behind the outhouses. Arrive early--traffic is often congested at the bottom of the mountain. Trail maps (but not ski rentals) are available at the ski patrol cabin at the rear of the parking lot.

Phone: Los Padres National Forest Mt. Pinos Ranger District, (805) 245-3731.

MT. SAN JACINTO

It takes just 10 minutes for the Palm Springs Aerial Tram to make the remarkable journey from the desert to the alpine environs of Mt. San Jacinto State Park. The trail network begins at the ski and snowshoe rental shop, just down the hill from the tram’s mountaintop station. The going isn’t always easy--much of this is intermediate terrain--but it’s possible to be back at poolside in Palm Springs by sunset. Round-trip tram tickets are $16.95 per adult.

Phone: Palm Springs Aerial Tram, (619) 325-1391; Mt. San Jacinto State Park, (909) 659-2607.

SEQUOIA AND KINGS CANYON NATIONAL PARKS

Giant sequoia trees are impressive any time of the year, but there’s something especially poetic about skiing around these behemoths in the peace of wintertime. In Sequoia, the trails are best accessed at the Wolverton winter-use area, where ski rentals and maps are available. A popular route for expert skiers is the six-mile journey to the Pear Lake ski hut in the back country (phone 209-565-3782 for more information). In Kings Canyon, the trails can be accessed from Grant Grove Village; maps and ski rentals are available at the gas station. Two intermediate trails do a loop within the impressive Grant Grove of sequoias. The entry fee to the park is $10 per vehicle.

Phone: (209) 565-3341.

Groomed Trails

RIM NORDIC

Just across Highway 18 from Snow Valley in the San Bernardino National Forest, Rim Nordic is the groomed ski area closest to the L.A. Basin. The area is relatively new--it was constructed in 1991--and it has seven miles of groomed trails, with half rated as beginner. Country Road is a nice trail, taking skiers into a rolling meadow. Ski rentals are available and lessons are scheduled at 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m. every day. Trail passes are $8.

Phone: (909) 867-2600.

MONTECITO-SEQUOIA NORDIC SKI RESORT

The lodge is on the General’s Highway in the western Sierra, wedged between Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. There are 45 kilometers of groomed trails and more than 100 kilometers of ungroomed trails. The snow is usually plentiful and scenery is Grade A; popular destinations include several vistas of the Great Western Divide. Ski rentals, lessons and lodging are available. Trail passes are $12 for a full day, $7 for the afternoon.

Phone: (800) 843-8677.

TAMARACK CROSS-COUNTRY SKI AREA

A gorgeous place to ski, just 2 1/2 miles up the road from Mammoth Lakes. The spine of the groomed trail system is Lake Mary Road, which is closed beyond Twin Lakes during the winter, allowing skiers access to loops around Lake Mary, Lake Mamie and Horseshoe Lake. The Lake Mary Loop is rated for beginners and should not be missed--keep an eye out for the chickadees swooping down from trees. Ski rentals, lessons and lodging are available. Trail passes are $15 for a full day, $10 for afternoons and $5 all day on Thursdays.

Phone: (760) 934-2442.

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

The park has 24 miles of groomed trails and 90 miles of marked and ungroomed trails, all accessible from the Badger Pass Ski Area. The intermediate-rated Glacier Point Road travels 21 miles round-trip to Glacier Point, where skiers can peer down into the Yosemite Valley. There is also an overnight ski hut at Glacier Point. A favorite for experts is the trip on ungroomed trails to the Ostrander ski hut in the park’s back country (reservations are required to stay at either ski hut). Ski rentals and lessons are available. There are no trail fees, but the entry fee to the park is $20 per vehicle.

Phone: (209) 372-0200.

ROYAL GORGE CROSS-COUNTRY SKI AREA

Located 45 miles west of Reno on I-80, Royal Gorge is the perfect side trip for Tahoe skiers. The resort is also the largest cross-country ski area in North America with 88 groomed trails (80% of which are rated beginner or intermediate), totaling 328 kilometers in length. One popular destination is the trek to Point Mariah, where skiers can gaze into the 4,417-foot deep Royal Gorge. Trail passes are $16.50 midweek and $19.50 on weekends. Ski rentals, lessons and lodging are available.

Phone: (800) 500-3871.