Bountiful Bakery Cafe defines Laguna

DINING OUT

That Laguna Beach has earned a reputation as the supreme art capital

of the southland is unquestionable. Beyond the territories of

painting, graphic, music and writing endeavors, however, is the fine

art of cuisine as this column heralds weekly. The newest, and perhaps

most enterprising venue on the local gourmet scene is Laguna Culinary

Arts festively launched last month in Laguna Canyon with an opening

reception that aptly illustrated what artistry in cooking is all

about.

Spectacular presentations of appetizers, pastries, breads,

cheeses, cakes and more were grandly displayed for complimentary

sampling at this creative venue located between the Art A Fair and

Sawdust Festivals and past Serra’s Bar and Grill.

What is unique about this many-faceted establishment is more than

the charming little cafe up front equipped with half a dozen

colorfully draped tables and glass showcases crammed with delicious

viands. Beyond this area reposes an enormous bakery and kitchen where

those many delicacies are meticulously prepared to order. Then,

directly next door, is the interesting cooking school where

professional chef/instructors busily cater to students training to

gain professional status as well as wannabe home chefs. Soon to come,

there will be baking and pastry classes. The school, founded almost

two years ago by entrepreneur Nancy Milby, continues to operate

successfully at the initial Coast Highway quarters in the heart of

town.

For avid foodies interested primarily in devouring delicious

cuisine, this charming cafe is an instant palate pleaser offering

unbounded hospitality and surprisingly modest prices. The superlative

spectrum of taste sensations awaiting the adventuresome is nonstop.

Under tutelage of holistic chef Mark Cleveland come vegetarian

sandwiches, salads, soups and condiments which should even captivate

the palates of dedicated carnivores. With an octave of different

designer breads from which to choose come such unusual combinations

of fillings as a roasted vegetable medley with tender tofu slices and

imaginative seasonings of shitake sumac artichoke butter and baby

greens lavished on chewy ciabatta. An addictive cilantro, Thai chile

and olive oil dressing brings this further to a heightened level of

deliciousness.

In direct contrast is a sandwich based on chocolate cherry

sourdough. A heady anointing of blood orange, honey, miso and Dijon

mustard sweetly embellishes the content of marinated artichokes,

hearts of palm and queso blanco. Holding each of these towering

preparations picturesquely together is a sceptre of raw vegetables

alternately threaded with Greek and green olives. Equally ingenious

are salads, no more inviting than a creamy smoked chicken blend

seasoned with dill, crunchily contrasted with pecans and grapes, all

atop baby greens. This is equally enjoyable as a sandwich, topping

focaccia or ciabatta. For an all-American repast, try Thanksgiving

Every Day, a sourdough treat embracing turkey breast, mushroom

stuffing and cranberry sauce. Prices are amazing for all this bounty,

mainly in a $4.95 to $5.95 range, from .95 cents to $4.25 for

pastries, breads and desserts.

The heart of this menu relies primarily on organic vegetables and

condiments, including weekly soups, quiches and frittatas, desserts,

presided over by popular and energetic local resident Karen Oliphint,

are numerous and extraordinary commencing with luscious double

chocolate brownies, buttery apple Danish starburst pastries, tangy

lemon tarts and the yummy Sin Bar, a coconut-butterscotch concoction

drizzled with dark chocolate. For the calorie conscious, a healthy

walnut bran muffin is sugar and fat free.

You may serve yourself at the coffee bar with fragrant vanilla

bean, decaf and regular blends, half and half, skim and whole milks.

Beverages also include cafes latte and au lait, cappuccino, mocha,

hot chocolate, espresso, tea, fruit juices and soft drinks tabbed

from .75 cents to $2.95. Everything is available for takeout and, as

illustrated by gracious chef/instructor Kathleen Marangi, all will be

courteously and attractively packaged.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].