RESTAURANT REVIEW:

Normally it would be alarming to me to see an eight-item lunch menu and even more shocking to see a 12-item dinner menu.

I would go into palpitations with so few options, my self-diagnosed case of “lackus choicess” would kick into high gear. After eating a few times at Café R & D, however, it is hard for me to recommend just one dish.

The restaurant, part of the Houston’s chain, is anything but chain-like. The décor is airy and modern, and the open kitchen is visible not only from some of the tables, but from outside the restaurant as well, giving it a laboratory-type feel.

Elegance is stressed. The restaurant requests that cellphones be off when in the dining room, a request that is surprisingly met more often than not. The wait staff wears white shirts and black ties, and I haven’t met one yet who wasn’t extremely cordial while maintaining a high sense of professionalism.

The food, though, is what causes lunchtime waits up to 45 minutes and dinner lists a touch longer.

My last visit was for lunch, and I have eyed the French dip sandwich with envy for quite some time. The sandwich has been my choice before and the corned beef was so lean and flavorful that it is tempting to order it every time. My friend Andre had the cheeseburger, which he has declared to be the best in world, and though the proclamation may be a stretch, it is in the top 10 in Southern California, the home of the burger.

When my French dip came, I immediately opened the French roll and picked a piece of the roasted prime rib off and popped it in my mouth. The au jus I dipped it in made it that much more tantalizing, and it was the thinnest strip of red meat I have ever had.

I declare this is the best French dip I have ever had, and there is no writer’s exaggeration in that statement. Though horseradish comes with it, I didn’t want to blur the incredible taste that was occurring in my mouth with every bite. The sandwich is $17 and normally I would balk at such a price, but it was worth every cent.

The other item available on the sandwich menu at lunch is a tuna sandwich that is probably the weakest entry of the four. It is a sweet tuna, made with sweet pickles and mayonnaise, and if you prefer a dill tuna you will not be happy.

The four daily lunch features include a fresh pan-fried fish and a roasted chicken. There is also a center-cut fillet and a spinach and cheese omelet.

Dinner has some of the lunch items, like the cheeseburger and the French dip, as well as all four of their entrée salads. My favorite of those salads is the roasted chicken salad served with champagne vinaigrette.

The entrees at dinner are naturally a bit more involved, but equally as satisfying. The rigatoni features a house-made marinara, and the spicy Italian sausage gives it a necessary kick.

Two other items I would recommend are the roasted pork and the wild mushroom meatloaf. The pork has a cornbread sausage stuffing that is incredible, while the meatloaf is perfect comfort food, though I wished the mashed potatoes that come with it were laced with garlic.

Two items that should be ordered on any visit are the hand-cut fries and the carrot cake. The fries are shoestring thin and lightly fried with a hint of crunch. The carrot cake is three layers and features toasted walnuts and mascarpone icing.

The menu might be limited, but the possibilities are not.

Address: 555 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach

Phone: (949) 219-0555

Cuisine: American

Specialty dish: French dip or Newporter Salad

Alcohol served: Full bar

Dress: Casual

Family friendly: Yes, kid’s menu with four items

Credit cards accepted: Visa, MasterCard and American Express

Rating: ***

JOHN REGER is the Pilot’s restaurant critic. His reviews run Thursdays.