JAZZ REVIEW : Mucho Gusto Grill Opens With Gusto

COSTA MESA — With a steady flow of customers and invigorating music by a quartet featuring guitarist Phil Upchurch, Mucho Gusto, a new Costa Mesa nitery, got off to a dandy start Thursday.

The opening (it had been twice delayed) of the club--which proclaims itself a “Jazz Bar & Latin Grill” in pink neon script over the doorway--drew more than 300 people over the course of the evening, according to operations manager George Gallardo, formerly associated with El Matador in Huntington Beach.

“We’re doing a lot better than I thought; I expected only about a hundred people,” Gallardo said between sets as he stood in his new kitchen. Behind him, his crew was hurrying to serve selections from a limited menu of items such as shrimp and steak fajitas and Tex-Mex halibut. (Gallardo said he plans to have a full menu by Tuesday.)

The crowd, which did most of its coming and going between 7 and 11 p.m., split itself between the main room--a light and airy rectangular space with turquoise and sand-colored Southwestern decor--and the slightly smaller bar area.

Those who wanted to focus on Upchurch and his cohorts--bassist Luther Hughes, who is Mucho Gusto’s entertainment director, keyboardist Mark Massey and drummer Dave Hooper--sat at one of the 20 or so tables in the main room. As it held forth from a small bandstand toward the rear, the band could be seen clearly seen (there are no visual obstructions) and heard (sometimes too well) as it offered contemporary jazz tunes from Kenny Burrell’s snappy blues “Chitlins con Carne” to the laid-back and funky “Night Breeze.”

Upchurch--who in his 30-year-plus career has worked with such top names as Cannonball Adderly, Quincy Jones and the Crusaders --was a solid choice to get Mucho Gusto off the ground. Whether he was playing the Roger Miller hit “King of the Road” or Charlie Parker’s be-bop opus “Scrapple From the Apple,” he found ways to make a scintillating statement.

During “Scrapple,” Upchurch--who gets a sweet, singing sound from his hollow-bodied jazz-style instrument--dashed off chordal leaps and played fast, whirling lines before ending with a chorus of strummed chord melody, definitely his strongest suit. The chunky blocks of sound seemed to dance through space; one can easily see why Upchurch earned his fame as a rhythm guitarist.

Massey was likewise at home, improvising fluid lines no matter what the vehicle. He played bluesy funk on “Chitlins,” taking a short phrase and repeating it over and over to create a groove. And on “Scrapple” he mixed long, winding ideas with brief, telling ones.

Hughes, always a firm accompanist, also soloed admirably, reflecting rhythmic muscle and musical taste. Hooper bashed on agreeably.

“When I saw in the paper that Phil Upchurch was going to be here, I knew I had to come. He’s one of the best,” said Mike Bocek, an accountant (and amateur guitarist) from Garden Grove.

“The food’s great and so’s the music,” said Dick Kluxdal of Corona, who was sitting in the main room with his wife, Janet.

Among the entrees to be available at Mucho Gusto are El Rey de Marisco (broiled fresh swordfish topped with sauteed yellow chilies, onions and a dash of tequila) and Yucatan chicken (a broiled breast marinated in lemon, lime and orange juices). Standard Mexican dishes such as tacos and enchiladas will also be served. Prices will range from $5.95 to $15.95, Gallardo said.

Mucho Gusto is at 263 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa. It will feature contemporary jazz Tuesdays through Sundays. Coming performers include guitarist Juan Carlos Quintero (tonight at 9:30), singer Yvette Stewart with keyboardist Rob Mullins (Sunday at 9 p.m.) and keyboardist Dave Witham with guitarist Mike Miller (Tuesday at 9 p.m.) No cover charge. Information: (714) 631-4009.