1994 Domaine Drouhin, “Laurene” Oregon Pinot Noir ($40)

This reserve bottling from an excellent vintage is terrific--elegant and understated, with a definite Burgundian feel and a fine, long finish. It’s named for the young daughter of Veronique Drouhin, of Burgundy’s well-known Drouhin family, who runs this estate in the Willamette Valley with her father, Robert. It would be a beautiful match with salmon or wild game birds.