What Are You Drinking?

“I’ve come late to Gruner Veltliner; I’ve resisted, but resistance is now futile. I never understood Gruner Veltliner, I never got the point of it; it always seemed like a Riesling wannabe, not as flashy, as aromatic or as obvious in charm. But I now get Gruner, I understand it, I’m delighted by it.... I can’t keep the vintages straight, but the two producers I like are Loibner and Brundlmayer. They’re extremely rich, concentrated and yet very light and refreshing. They’re sort of like these 250-pound linebackers that can run the 50-yard dash in, like, one second. I like best their incredible food-friendliness. They’re best with Asian cuisine. They have wonderful acidity and lightness and a refreshing quality that marries with spicy foods. They are great food wines.”