Catch of the day may not belong on menu

CABO SAN LUCAS, MEXICO — The colorful game fish, with its iridescent green and yellow hues, is called dorado, which roughly translates to “golden one.”

It’s wildly acrobatic at the end of a line and wonderfully delicious off the grill.

Tourists in southern Baja California can find it at many restaurants, usually listed under its other name, mahi mahi.

But the difference between the fish served here and that in Hawaiian restaurants is that the Mexican variety, in some cases, is tainted gray ... as in gray area.

Dorado and striped marlin, another species commonly sold as table fare, are among six types of fish in Mexico that are off-limits to commercial fishermen inside of 50 miles.

Clearly, then, something is fishy in paradise.

This is nothing new, but with mounting concerns about exploitation, the local sportfishing association is asking tourists to consult their consciences before ordering dinner.

It is also requesting, thus far with little success, that restaurant owners stop selling these fish.

“We want to promote the non-commercialization of any species reserved for sportfishing,” said Marco Ehrenberg, owner of Pisces Sportfishing and a member of the sportfishing and restaurant owners’ associations.

The federal protection, also afforded roosterfish, sailfish, swordfish and tarpon, is in support of a multimillion-dollar sportfishing industry. Marlin is king, and most caught are released. Dorado is a close second.

Many restaurants legally import dorado. But dorado and marlin also come from commercial fishermen and even sportfishing captains who persuade clients to donate their catch so they can feed their families, then sell it to restaurants.

“Instead of looking for excuses and trying to find who’s at fault, we have to start in our own homes,” said Ehrenberg, who is also director of international affairs for the state of Baja California Sur. “We know that the sportfishing fleets are one of the sources of illegal marketing of dorado and marlin, so let’s start locally. We don’t need the government.”

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The grass-roots campaign is really a reaction to a much larger issue.

Mexico reportedly is close to publishing into law a long-debated shark-fishing regulation that will allow commercial long-line fishermen as close as 10 miles from shore.

Various groups contend that NOM-029, known as the shark norma, could result in widespread exploitation of untargeted fisheries, notably dorado and marlin.

The current version of the norma, still subject to modification, imposes upon the shark-fishing fleet -- more than 200 vessels strong and currently unrestricted -- reasonably favorable zoning limitations:

Boats under 36 feet (a maximum of 350 hooks per vessel) will be allowed as close as 10 miles; boats 30 to 90 feet (1,200 hooks) must fish beyond 15 miles, and larger vessels (1,500 hooks) must remain beyond 50 miles.

What’s alarming is that the norma does little to protect unintended “bycatch,” which the fishermen may send to market.

Perhaps naively, Ehrenberg and his supporters hope ultimately to persuade federal lawmakers to impose an outright ban on the commercial sale of dorado and marlin, removing temptation from long-liners who may be intentionally targeting them.

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Eastern Sierra fishing: A new regulation opening three popular waters to year-round catch-and-release angling, beginning March 1, has stirred quite a debate.

Eligible areas are the California portion of the East Walker River, which runs into Nevada; Hot Creek near Mammoth Lakes, and the nearby Upper Owens River above Benton Crossing.

Critics cite mostly public safety and poaching as concerns. Supporters say that the state’s decision to increase angler opportunities was overdue.

“Persons citing safety issues are not being realistic,” said Tom Loe, owner of Sierra Drifters guide service. “Skiers and snowmobile enthusiasts pose a far greater risk to themselves and rescue persons that time of year.”

The general trout-fishing season opens April 28.

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Short fuse: Sea lions are ruining more Southern California fishing trips than ever as problem pinnipeds -- those that steal fish from anglers’ hooks -- become more numerous and resourceful.

And because they are federally protected, there’s little anyone can do about it.

Don Ashley, owner of Pierpoint Landing and Marina Sportfishing in Long Beach, said “seal-control” bombs can be purchased by captains holding special permits, but they are reluctant to use them, for obvious reasons.

“There are so many sea lions that we’d have to use too many,” Ashley said. “It’d be like a war zone out there. People would be throwing them like grenades.”

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Here for the holidays: Numbers are still being crunched for the annual Christmas Bird Count, a three-week international survey that ends today, but figures are in for one of the top U.S. sites: the Palos Verdes-South Bay Counting Circle.

In 24 hours in an area 15 miles in diameter, volunteers tallied 181 species, 23 more than the previous year. Included were western screech owls and a long-eared owl.

Said naturalist Tracy Drake: “It is an awesome experience -- one in which you can learn dozens of species as well as see some of our area’s most productive habitats and majestic scenery.”

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