Guidebook: Beneath Beijing

Getting there: From Los Angeles, China Eastern flies nonstop to Beijing; United, Air Canada, Northwest, Korean and Thai airlines have connecting flights (with a change of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $663.

Telephones: To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (international access code), 86 (country code), 10 (city code) and the local number.

Beijing Underground City: Take the loop subway to Qianmen and walk out the southeast exit. Damochang Alley is a few yards ahead. Underground City, 62 W. Damochang Alley, is open 8 a.m.-6 p.m.; 6701-1389. Admission is $2.50 and includes a tour in English.

Where to stay: The Qianmen Hotel, 175 Yong’an Lu (6301-6688, fax 6301-3883), puts its best foot forward for tourists. Double room with breakfast about $67.

A good option is the LuSong Yuan Courtyard Hotel, 22 Banchang Alley, off Andingmennei Street in Xicheng District; 6401-1116, fax 6403-0418, https://www.sinohotelguide.com/beijing/lusongyuan. For $37-$42, you’ll get a simple room that looks onto a courtyard or bamboo garden.

Where to eat: Along West Damochang Alley, you’ll find dozens of small restaurants. Most are nameless, save for a sign promising noodles or dumplings, sweet-and-sour pork, spicy tofu and a beer for $2.50 a person.

For a more elaborate feast, go to Quanjude, the city’s best-known roast duck restaurant at 32 Qianmen St.; 6701-1379. Opened in 1852, it serves dinners starting at $12 a person.

Farther south at 158 Qianmen St. is Gongdelin, Beijing’s best-known vegetarian restaurant; 6702-0867. For $3.60 try “dragon’s eyes,” made of tofu and mushrooms.

For more information: China National Tourist Office, 600 W. Broadway, Suite 320, Glendale, CA 91204; (818) 545-7507, fax (818) 545-7506, https://www.cnto.org.